Saturday, May 10, 2008

Lovely Day for Sitting in the Park


Suzie and I wound up our day by lounging in St. James's Park and enjoying a cone of ice cream. The weather all week has been sensational, and it was capped off by the postcard-perfect afternoon we had in the park. After a long day of walking, including picking up Suzie's umbrella and my mid-afternoon hangover, the candy-striped deck chairs were a welcome sight. We stayed long enough to soak it all in (or at least until the attendant came and asked us to pay the £1.50 each for the use of the chairs).

We headed home, with a final stop at Suzie's favorite grocery, Waitrose. There, I stocked up on Colman's mustard, crumpets and HP sauce. I didn't go too crazy on the sundries--no need to, since after all, we will be making many many more trips to London together in the future.

Bottoms Up!

My friend Adam, with whom I worked at my old job, met us for drinks Friday afternoon. Given the heat, it was the perfect occasion for me to try my first Pimm's, and it was a very refreshing drink. It was not, however, a scotch. For that, Adam urged me to drop in to Berry Bros. & Rudd, and seek out the salesman with the ruddy complexion and an eagerness to pour out a dram or two to sample. So today Suzie and I returned to St. James's Street and paid a visit to Berry Bros. It did not disappoint. Of the three or four salespeople, it was obvious which one was our guy--Ed (that's him, below).


Ed graciously spent at least 45 minutes with me, pouring out several samples of unique and hard-to-find scotches. As Ed explained, Berry Bros. goes 'round to the many distilleries in Scotland and selects the finest individual casks of single malt, buying the casks for themselves and bottling the whisky under their name. These particular casks are chosen for their quality and character. Thus, as Ed pointed out, while a distillery attempts to aim for consistency of product for their customers year in and year out by carefully blending the various thousands of casks produced each year, Berry Bros. specifically tastes and purchases casks which meet their criteria for their limited production boutique bottlings.

Interesting bit of trivia--Berry Bros. is housed in a storefront hundreds of years old (the back wall dates from the 1500s), with creaky floors and not a plumb or square line in the joint. In fact, apparently during the Blitz a German bomb exploded up the street from the shop, with the result that Berry Bros. storefront was pushed several inches further out into the street than the neighboring buildings due to the concussion from the blast. But back to our story...

So it was that Suzie, happy to rest her feet for a bit, watched as I sampled dram after dram, with Ed happily opening bottle after bottle. Needless to say, I was somewhat sozzled after all his help. And that bottle--which I at first had admonished him was way out of my price range--became more and more reasonable the more I sampled. In the end, in my whisky-clarified state I was able to lucidly rationalize that (a) I had easily consumed £10-20 worth of fine whisky and (b) I'd get the VAT back at the airport, so...long story short, my bag is slightly heavier for the trip home, and yes, it's the spendy bottle. Job well done, Ed.

When in Rome

I had told Suzie that I wanted to drop by James Smith & Sons, an umbrella shop in London which has been family-run since 1830. The shop is as old as you might imagine, as if it was plucked right out of a novel (with a staff from Central Casting to boot). As you may have guessed, they make and sell high-end umbrellas. Eight years ago, I bought an umbrella from them, and it is a fine umbrella. So we dropped in on Friday, ostensibly to have a look around, but really so that I could buy an umbrella for Suzie.

After she had a bit of a look around, I told her the real reason why were were there. Of course, James Smith & Sons stocks ready made umbrellas, but will also custom fit one for you. The shopkeeper (who I am certain is the same fellow who helped me select an umbrella those years ago), was very diplomatic when I inquired as to which ladies umbrella style was best: "why, whichever one she selects is usually the right one for the job." Wise words indeed.

Thus, Suzie had a grand time selecting a handle style, handle color, umbrella length and umbrella color. She even was able to rummage through drawers and drawers of tassles to select one or two to attach to the handle. Now, even though James Smith & Sons employs full time umbrella fitters, there is still a wait to have a custom one made. However, upon learning that we were departing for New York on Sunday, the shopkeeper arranged to have the umbrella ready for us today, Saturday.

Picking out the handle and umbrella color:

Choosing the tassles:

The finished product, waiting for us on Saturday:

On Your Feet!

Suzie on the job outside the gate to St. James's Palace, home of Prince Charles, Camilla and Princes William and Harry.

Everything Sounds Polite with an Accent...


Oi! Outta me way! This dumptruck was parked in the street at a job site we passed. Love that sticker on the tailgate.

Update! Borough Market

We couldn't help ourselves--we returned to Borough Market this morning for coffee at Suzie's favorite coffee shop, Monmouth. All I can say is "wow"--coffee as good as our favorite boutique hole-in-the-wall coffee place in New York. And that's saying something.

I've finally uploaded more pictures of the Market to the original post about the Market from yesterday (so feel free to revisit it for even more food porn)--but here are a few more pics to give you and idea of how popular the Market is.

Our Last Full Day

Big plans for today--we have a few shopping errands to run this morning, then we're off to have a picnic in a park. First stop: Suzie's favorite coffee shop (back down in Borough Market), then off to James Smith & Sons to pick up Suzie's gift (that'll be a future post). We have fantastic weather again today, so I'm beginning to think England is all sunshine and beautiful flowers.